Louis Latour 06 at Michy's in Miami

Wowee. Well, it WAS nice to taste through the 2006 Louis Latour Burgundies I suppose. I enjoy the wines occasionally, but they don't often rattle my rusty cage or inspire me all that much (except for the 1990 Corton Charlie, which remains to this day my benchmark for Louis Latour whites).

The 2006 Corton Charlemagne, at just this side of $100 per bottle, was pretty darn tasty, albeit young as heck, and peeking it's subtly floral head from behind the wispy veil of clean acidity. It was leaning on the verdant side of citrus, however, and I wonder if that will ripen up and soften out a bit with some years in the bottle.

I still remember my other favorite Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne, the 1995. Almost sublime, it almost whispered with delicate and precise ripe lemony freshness without any of that lemon oil bite, more like citrus essence in its cleanliness. It was a wine that made me stop and savor, and literally contemplate...

Yes, I am getting to the point, hopefully without too much hyperbole and beating around the bush.

Truth be told, Louis Latour wines of late normally bore the hell out of me unless they are unusually delicious. Tasting through the 20 or so wines at Michy's was just shy of a chore. Acrid aromatics here, and a hint of volatile acidity there. The Batard Montrachet not even open at all, the reds were poor except for the Aloxe Corton, and the food pairings were skimpily laid out for the drunks to feed on like seagulls. Don't get me wrong, the FOOD WAS VERY GOOD, but the perpetuation of the ruse that Louis Latour wines need food to taste good has gone too far. Here's the case where the saleperson butts in and proclaims, offended, "They are SUPPOSED to taste that way, they are meant to age, that's the terroir, it's unique." That's complete and utter bullshit. (In a world of Bentleys and BMWs don't oversell the Buick.)

Most of the wines don't have the structure, acidity, or charm to taste good at all... ever. They are boring to me, flat, thin, watery, and vegetal. No amount of aging, no heavenly meal will ever make these wines something special.

For a wine company to be so huge, and wealthy, these wines simply don't deliver. To me, it's disappointing and sad that the ambition for excellence is all but gone for this assumedly well- respected negociant. With all that money, I simply expect a lot more from the wine than what is currently being bottled.

Want a rating? D for DULL, or G for GENERIC. These are not the wines they used to produce. I will not buy them or recommend them. These wines are a waste of money. Period.

a.ferguson

here's a tip: Look for white Burgundies from Verget, or Vincent Girardin, even the most basic wines from them deliver more pleasure than the best from Louis Latour.

Amazing Italian Red Value

Poggio alle Querce “Il Guado” Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy Located up the road from Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia in Tuscany's famed Bolgheri region, Il Guado is made from 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, and exibits such qualities as only those from this region can express: power, finesse, grace, and longevity. It has a fantastic nose complete with hints of truffle, blackberry, sage, dried cherry, cedar, cassis, spice box, plum cake, whiffs of vanilla bean, and a split personality between sweet and savory notes that keeps unfolding in waves of chocolate and coffee. Massive amounts of extract and silky tannin, this has fruit to back it up, yet will last effortlessly for a decade or more! We are guessing (betting) that the big publications discover this one soon. Once that happens, prices skyrocket and availability plummets. Get on it, quick! Should run about 20 bucks...

a.ferguson

Old Pinot Noir Article Discovered

These wines continue to get EVEN BETTER with time almost regardless of vintage and represent some of the finest Pinot Noirs EVER...

I post this in remembrance of the 1989 Stonington Vineyards Pinot Noir Southeastern New England... no, really, I do...


Wines to Find
12 best Pinot Noirs of 2003

The best of column contains the wines that really hit the spot for me in the previous month. Forget the ratings, I don’t like to write about wines I think are yucky in a “best of column”, anyway. That wouldn’t make any sense, would it? We do a top twelve, because a case of ten doesn’t get you a discount at the local shop. The wines are listed in no particular order.

This past year has been a sort of renaissance in the world of Pinot Noir, especially in California. It has also been an awakening of sorts in my brain as well when it concerns this grape of such variable successes. Great Pinot is being made in every nook and cranny of California. Regional differences in this state, in a way, mimic the terroirs of Burgundy. Not to say that they taste the same, but I argue that Santa Barbara wines taste like Santa Barbara’s soil and grapes, and the same goes for Russian River, Paso Robles, and everywhere else for that matter (provided the inherent qualities are preserved by the growers and winemakers).

The twelve wines that follow are the finest examples of Pinot Noir that I have tasted in the past year or so. They represent fruit with balanced acidity, oak for aromatic nuances, texturally sound midpalate, and overall bliss factor. Of course price has nothing to do with anything. Availability might be an issue for some wines.

2001 Foley Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County
Fennel pollen, tea roses, and shy red cherry aromatics do great justice to the palatable characters of deep plum, sour black cherry, and strawberry sauce flavors. Oh baby! This plum scented number teeters on the edge of cherries and cappuccino flavors. I really love this wine, and have a hard time saving a bottle for my buddy Chef Melissa. It is deep and gorgeously textured, like silky velvet. The acidity is just slightly tangy enough to make my mouth water. Okay, I am drooling! This is really delicate Pinot Noir, but not without heaps of flavor in the midpalate. Worth every red scent!

2001 Fort Ross Vineyards Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
What a wine, so silky and seductive. A jaw dropper of a glass of wine filled with plum and cherry cola. Coffee and roasted nut aromas are subtly waiting in the wings of the starring fruit. Fred Scherrer consulted for this one. Go Fred, go!

2001 Scherrer Winery Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
My friends Dave and Kevin were out here to taste this with me. The incredible fruit and structure of this wine really defined what the Sonoma Coast appellation is all about. Scented with cherry blossoms and deep plum- berry fruit, with perfectly balanced acidity, and a finish that wouldn’t quit, this is one of my all time favorite wines, from anywhere, at any price!

2001 Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
I watched Ross Cobb make this wine and helped with the bottling. The care that he takes with his wines is so intensely attentive, that I just couldn’t believe it. Ross and his parents are among the talented few who not only farm for flavors, but also raise their wines in the cellar as if they were part of the family. The wine world can learn a lot from a winemaker like Ross, I know I did! Check them out: http://www.cobbwines.com/.
The final product could very well be the finest Pinot Noir I have yet tasted from California. Subtle Asian spices tiptoe alongside the utterly seductive black cherry flavors and undulating waves of flavor amongst the texturally harmonious, yet not intrusive, extract and acidity in the midpalate.

1991 Domaine Dujac Aux Combottes Gevrey Chambertin
Frighteningly balanced black fruit and mineral. Stops you in your tracks kind of wine. Makes one realize why Burgundy is great. A “wine epiphany” wine. Utterly complete and seamlessly knit together, without and frayed edges showing. The kind of wine that glides through the mouth.

2002 Spy Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir, New Zealand
A sumptuous Pinot nose with dark berry, juniper, blood orange zest, and cherry cola integrates well with spicy and delicious black fruit and nutty oak. Nice acidity with vanilla on the finish brings this wine to a close. The acidity on this wine makes it appear light and quite young, which it is. With an overnight of air, or a year or two in bottle this wine is supreme. Black coffee, sweet pipe tobacco, and black cherry emerge as the acidity smoothes out over the full silky tannin frame. I open this wine the night before, at this point, and the waiting is the hardest part!

2002 Flowers Andreen Gale Cuvee Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Of course I love this wine, silly! I was THERE to help Hugh and Ross that year. (I was knee deep
in the fragrant must, shoveling it into a basket press.) Coffee, violets, cinnamon, cardamom, sage, toasty oak, cherry, all whirling around and around with Asian spice, zingy raspberry, and a memorable, bittersweet finish that leave you glad you were there to taste it. Really friendly at first, but needs time to mature and loosen up.

2001 Annapolis Winery Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
If I wanted to be a Pinot Noir in a Syrah costume… a BIG ONE, with chocolatey oak, hinting at ginseng and graham cracker, I would be from Annapolis Winery. Dark soil, caramel, cocoa, pear and white tea flavors dissipate into a nice coffee finish. Very large for Pinot Noir! Enjoy with very flavorful dishes.

2000 Lynmar Winery Quail Hill "Quail Cuvee" Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
Mixed berry and spicy vanilla cola knit well with dried fruit to present a Pinot Noir with good varietal character. This is one of my picks for home. For its price, it beats most others. I think it is delicious, with layers and layers of spices and flavors. Blackberry aromatics don’t hurt either. In my book, it’s their best wine.

2001 Peter Michael Le Moulin Rouge Pinot Noir, Calistoga
Beautifully flavored, almost Syrah-like in intensity with its blackberry syrup personality. This is delicious, dark, and extremely rich. If I only had MORE!!! Big and dense, this wine keeps on delivering heaps of full-bodied pleasure.

2001 J Vineyards Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
12,500 cases produced. Like seeing a child all grown up, J Pinot hits the balance and comes of age with a really nice wine for the dollar. Inviting flavors of cranberry, cola, bright cherry, and pomegranate with touches of mushrooms make this a wine to bring this to our house anytime! Hint, hint…

2002 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir
Winemaker Anthony Austin is the guy I call the $6 million dollar winemaker. Not only does he do magic in the cellar, but he is one of the most hands on, down to earth people in the business. His style is an amalgamation of finesse, balance, and texture. The flavors that emerge from his light hand are true Pinot Noir expressionism. The 2002 SCV Pinot is not unlike slipping into a bed with satin sheets; soft, seductive, and lets the imagination run wild. This is a wine with personality, body, character, and intelligence to fall in love with. It’s what Pinot Noir is all about!

© 2004 theWinepress

Sonoma Coast

Ahhhhhh...
Really good Syrah is hard to beat. Fresh and deep aromas of blackberry pie, exotic spices giving warm depth and complexity, and brilliant acidity that makes the mouth water. This is a wine that does more than please the senses, it evokes great memories. Wines that encourage introspection and reflection do more than simply taste good, they transcend. Sounds a bit corny? Perhaps, but you know it's true. I'd be willing to bet you can remember exactly where you were and who you were with when you last tasted a favorite wine.
Sonoma Coast Vineyards' Syrah Hummingbird Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast, California does that for me. Just thinking of it reminds me of the rolling hills outside of Occidental, California, when the warm sun releases the scents of the wild rosemary, fennel, and lavender that grows like shrubs around almost every corner. (This wine brings me back to that time when all that mattered was "what to put on the grill tonight?")
Only 293 cases of this beautiful artwork were made, giving it that nostalgic, bittersweet characteristic that can't be tasted, but savored in a finish that lasts a lifetime...

a.ferguson

The Wine Blue Book? Heck Yes! If you are serious about wine and shopping for it, this is a tool you absolutely need to prepare yourself for the ever changing market of vinous commerce. Not only can you find ratings, but a unique Quality Index percentage. Finally a wine rating system that delivers true information based on price AND quality. The lower the percentage, the better value/ quality per dollar ratio. Brilliant. My tasting schedule sure isn't what it used to be, and this handy reference helps me keep up with what wines are out there.

I've never been a ratings whore, and many of you know me as one who eschews Speculo- advocated media sensationalism, but when I run across a wine that I am not sure about, this guide answers the Big Question: "Yes, but is it worth it?"

Next time you ask yourself the Big Question, it should be while your nose is in The Wine Blue Book, not in a wine glass full of regret.

a.ferguson.

Riesling to LOVE

I pity the fool who poo poos Riesling as Grandma’s wine, or “too sweet”. Perhaps they have tried every Riesling on the planet and can assume that they are Riesling experts all of a sudden. Dry, say it with me, DRY Rieslings are all over the place, but a lot of folks are too chicken to try ‘em. Well, dry Rieslings go great with chicken… and fish, lobster, Thai food, oysters, pork, ham, sausage, cured meats, cheese, lots of stuff. The Lengs and Cooter Riesling Watervale Clare Valley, South Australia is PHENOMENAL. What an awesome example of the greatness that is Riesling. Kaffir and Key lime, Meyer lemon, Gravenstein apple, Bartlett pear, and numerous other aromas that justify proper adjectives are evident in this wine. Unreal brightness and clarity match the equally sublime zesty acidity, enhancing the flavors of Blenheim kiwi, subtle Georgia peach, and Indian River grapefruit. I can’t say enough good things about this delicious white wine. It has the clean zip I love, the aromatics I crave, the length on the palate that makes me smile, and the complexity that keeps me coming back for more. To really get to know Riesling, is to LOVE it.
Don’t be chicken, try it!

a.ferguson

Dashwood Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand
Thank goodness it hasn’t been all that long since we found a delicious Pinot under $20 that we can get excited about. A major publication totally missed the mark when rating this wine. They must have been asleep and unable to notice the classic deep ruby/ garnet color, the ripe cherry and soft spice aromatics, the distinct and perectly balanced acidity, and long soft finish. Tough luck for them, good fortune for us! Highly versatile, this Pinot will match salmon, chicken, beef, and whatever else is in front of you at the moment. We recommend finding wild caught Pacific salmon if you can…

a.ferguson

Bodega Catena Zapata Alamos Viognier Mendoza, Argentina
No oak, no malolactic fermentation, no B.S. No tutti fruity syrupy dreck. No chills, spills, or bellyaches in this beautiful example of one of earth’s most difficult white grapes to vinify. Viognier was the darling of France’s Northern Rhone valley for centuries, but now it is a little more abundant and easier to grow elsewhere, as in Argentina. Succulent, crisp, mouthwatering citrus, peach, apricot, and light floral spice character shines with a unique freshness. Awesome.

Keep 2 in the Door

Domaine du Tariquet Ugni Blanc Colombard Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne
Dare we say this is the perfect white for summer quaffing? Indeed! Wholly and purely refreshing, with lively citrusiness, hints of flowers, and a touch of tropicality. This is absolutely thirst quenching and satisfying. Goes down easy without being too light and acidic, or too goopey like some heavier wines. This is all day sipping wine to have at hand at all times. According to the winery, one should “always have a bottle in the fridge door, just in case.” We agree, but recommend at least two in the door.

What to pair with Fava Beans and Old Friends

I love the Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva so much I’d travel to Italy to buy it all. Mmm! Sangiovese based with a dollop of Canaiolo and Colorino for good measure, this is what Chianti is all about. Traditionally a small amount of white wine was required to be blended into all red Chianti. Although not a stipulation these days, Nozzole sticks with tradition by including 2% white wine from Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes, adding a refreshing brightness to the deep dark cherry, truffle, and black tea nuances. Two full years in huge Slovenian oak casks plus one more in the bottle is the aging regimen for this Tuscan specialty. Did someone say “Where’s the beef?”

Chard No Way?

Weary of the same aromas and flavors that have made Chardonnay seem so… common? It can get very tiresome with the usual routine. That’s why we agree with those rascally winemakers at Vinum Cellars. Their tongue in cheek titles for their wines reflect the playful attitude they keep. Chenin Blanc grapes appear to be the medium for them to create some of California’s most unique and delicious white wine. The fun and delicious Vinum Cellars Chenin Blanc “CNW” Cuvee Clarksburg, California is a shining example of just how new, different, and fun wines other than Chard can be. Crisp and clean, fresh apple and light floral aromas make this Chenin Blanc immensely easy to enjoy. Traditionally a grape from the Loire Valley in France, Chenin grows extremely well in California, especially in Clarksburg with it’s hot days and cool nights.
Skip the Chard and go with Chenin.CNW! Chard– NO– Way

Le Corte “Solyss” Negroamaro Novoli, Apulia, Italia
100% Negroamaro grapes from the “heel of the boot”, Italy’s region of Puglia. This inky– black number possesses so much richness and finesse that we couldn’t believe it was aged for 6 months in stainless steel rather than expensive oak barrels! Made with the help of Austrailian hotshot Chris Ringland, this wine has amazing extract with deep dark berry, tea, and cherry aromas and flavors. An unexpected treat for the palate especially when paired with BBQ

Fresh and Clean

Culley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand
Lemon zest, sweet pea blossom, mineral, and lime aromas with a wee hint of tropical fruit like guava and kiwi. Fantastic balance and a springlike freshness give this wine immediate appeal. The grapes come from the Yarrum Vineyard, in Brancott Valley. Picked in the cool morning to preserve the crispness that is so desirable in Sauvignon Blancs from the Northern end of the South Island of New Zealand. All stainless steel fermentation and bottled a quick three months after harvest. Snappy!

IT’S TATERS!

Colcannon (Cal Ceannan)

3 pounds o’ potatoes, scrubbed and peeled
2 pounds o’ leeks, white parts, rinsed, chopped
2 sticks o’ butter
2 big bunches o’ kale, washed
1 1/2 cups milk, warm
1tsp fresh nutmeg (IMPORTANT)
Fresh pepper and sea salt to taste
OPTION: sauté the leeks with added diced bacon in step two...


Boil the taters and mash ‘em with a stick o’ butter, add 1/2 the nutmeg. Keep warm...
In a large saucepan, sauté the leeks in 2 tbsp butter and start adding the kale, a handful at a time, it will cook down to fit. Grind a lot of fresh black pepper in when you feel like it.
Relax, have a Guinness.
Combine everything you have now cooked together, stirring in milk and remaining butter. Don’t beat the mixture to death or it will turn into glue. Go easy and it should remain nice and light.
Another Guinness.
Add the rest of the nutmeg at the very end and you will realize why it makes the dish that much better.
Relax and have another Guinness.
Serve as a side instead of plain potatoes with a spice rubbed rib eye steak, DA's Perfect roast Chicken, or Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron.
Just relax...

Baa... Baa... Bonarda?

Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah/ Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina
Bonarda? What the…? The most widely planted grape in Argentina is usually blended with Nebbiolo or Barbera in Piedmont, Italy. It grows so darn well in Argentina that it can stand alone, or be blended. This Syrah, Bonarda blend is some serious grillin’ material. Fennel, earth, cocoa, faint herb, black cherry jam, spice box, blackberry, countless complex aromas and flavors and ginormous amounts of silky tannin make this a wine worth taking out the grill early and searing off an entire side o’ beef. Save the ribeye for us… Also perfect with Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron

a.ferguson

Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron

Pick out some rosy, well marbled lamb loin chops and season them with sea salt and pepper. In a large zip top bag, smash and peel as many cloves of garlic as you can handle. Add a teaspoon of good saffron*, a handful of roughly chopped cilantro, and a half cup or so of good olive oil. Let marinate at room temp for two hours, or all day, turning to coat chops often. Remove chops and sear in a hot skillet or grill about a minute or two per side. Serve on a bed of mixed greens with a side of mashed potatoes. A delicious meal to share on one plate, just use your fingers to eat the chops, way more romantic and fun when you share.

*check out http://www.saffron.com/, a WHOLE OUNCE of the finest saffron runs only $69, it’s the best deal and will last almost a year.

Relearn Your ABCs

ABC… anything but Chardonnay. We’ll that might have been true when new French oak barrels were more affordable, but now they cost more than $1000 each! Savvy winemakers like Hugh Chappelle at Lynmar Winery only put Chardonnay in some new barrels and some that are 1 and 2 years old. This way the true character of Chardonnay can shine through, uninhibited by too much oak aromas and flavors. Working with Hugh when he was winemaker at Flowers Winery for the 2002 vintage, I learned a couple of things about how Chardonnay should be treated. With care, first and foremost. The grapes have to be cool… picked early in the morning, then hand sorted to get only the best grapes into the press, and then the juice is gently moved into the winery tanks to settle. Certain barrel regimen should be chosen: how many new, how many older, and which kind of barrels to use. If I remember right, Hugh likes Francois Freres mediums and Louis Latour’s house blend, and only uses 20 to 40 percent of them that are new. He would have me smell each barrel before I dared put any wine into it. I noticed some had a cinnamon quality, others vanilla, others tea and floral aromas. Each barrel of Chardonnay would be tucked into the winery and stored. I stirred the lees in each and every one of them at one point or another while at Flowers Winery in 2002 countless times over, encouraging the citrusy, floral aromas to emerge. Now that Hugh is at Lynmar Winery, and tasting his utterly stunning Lynmar Chardonnay Russian River, I can see that Hugh still has the magic touch with Chard. Citrusy and leesy, floral and crisp in the nose, rich, yet delicate on the palate. It’s one of the best, and why I love Chardonnay. Cheers, Hugh!

a.ferguson

Top Pick for Everyday

Dow Vale do Bonfim Duoro Reserva Duoro, Portugal
Such finesse and graceful balance is rarely found in affordable wines these days. The port producer Dow has made a dry red that fits the description. The Vale do Bonfim is gorgeously proportioned, refined, and elegant. Upon tasting this wine, we couldn’t believe the sheer beauty of this blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Barroca. Crushed red berries, deep cherry, a touch of warm spice, and harmonious acidity make this nectar nearly perfect for any meal or occasion.

Tres Barcos Toro, Spain
What a treat! This Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) wine has early accessibility AND the ability to age very well. Dried cherry and spiced plum aromas fill the glass and are echoed throughout the flavor profile. Deep berry characteristics are well balanced by a lower, yet fresh acidity that prepares the taster for yet another sip. Pork roast, sausage and rice dishes, charcuterie, pates, and other rustic peasant fare goes great with the wines of Toro. Rustic, soft, easy drinking red.

Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris Valle de Uco, Argentina
Fresh and lively aromas of lime blossom and white peach follow though onto the palate and balance harmoniously with clean, crisp apple and lemon flavors. The finish delivers refreshing acidity, which makes it work with almost any meal. It has just enough richness to stand on it’s own as well. A little for the chef, a little for the dish, no? Another Argentine treasure to savor. When you taste this, and notice the price, you’ll want more. Italian Pinot Grigio fans, step up and check this out.