Riesling to LOVE

I pity the fool who poo poos Riesling as Grandma’s wine, or “too sweet”. Perhaps they have tried every Riesling on the planet and can assume that they are Riesling experts all of a sudden. Dry, say it with me, DRY Rieslings are all over the place, but a lot of folks are too chicken to try ‘em. Well, dry Rieslings go great with chicken… and fish, lobster, Thai food, oysters, pork, ham, sausage, cured meats, cheese, lots of stuff. The Lengs and Cooter Riesling Watervale Clare Valley, South Australia is PHENOMENAL. What an awesome example of the greatness that is Riesling. Kaffir and Key lime, Meyer lemon, Gravenstein apple, Bartlett pear, and numerous other aromas that justify proper adjectives are evident in this wine. Unreal brightness and clarity match the equally sublime zesty acidity, enhancing the flavors of Blenheim kiwi, subtle Georgia peach, and Indian River grapefruit. I can’t say enough good things about this delicious white wine. It has the clean zip I love, the aromatics I crave, the length on the palate that makes me smile, and the complexity that keeps me coming back for more. To really get to know Riesling, is to LOVE it.
Don’t be chicken, try it!

a.ferguson

Dashwood Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand
Thank goodness it hasn’t been all that long since we found a delicious Pinot under $20 that we can get excited about. A major publication totally missed the mark when rating this wine. They must have been asleep and unable to notice the classic deep ruby/ garnet color, the ripe cherry and soft spice aromatics, the distinct and perectly balanced acidity, and long soft finish. Tough luck for them, good fortune for us! Highly versatile, this Pinot will match salmon, chicken, beef, and whatever else is in front of you at the moment. We recommend finding wild caught Pacific salmon if you can…

a.ferguson

Bodega Catena Zapata Alamos Viognier Mendoza, Argentina
No oak, no malolactic fermentation, no B.S. No tutti fruity syrupy dreck. No chills, spills, or bellyaches in this beautiful example of one of earth’s most difficult white grapes to vinify. Viognier was the darling of France’s Northern Rhone valley for centuries, but now it is a little more abundant and easier to grow elsewhere, as in Argentina. Succulent, crisp, mouthwatering citrus, peach, apricot, and light floral spice character shines with a unique freshness. Awesome.

Keep 2 in the Door

Domaine du Tariquet Ugni Blanc Colombard Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne
Dare we say this is the perfect white for summer quaffing? Indeed! Wholly and purely refreshing, with lively citrusiness, hints of flowers, and a touch of tropicality. This is absolutely thirst quenching and satisfying. Goes down easy without being too light and acidic, or too goopey like some heavier wines. This is all day sipping wine to have at hand at all times. According to the winery, one should “always have a bottle in the fridge door, just in case.” We agree, but recommend at least two in the door.

What to pair with Fava Beans and Old Friends

I love the Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva so much I’d travel to Italy to buy it all. Mmm! Sangiovese based with a dollop of Canaiolo and Colorino for good measure, this is what Chianti is all about. Traditionally a small amount of white wine was required to be blended into all red Chianti. Although not a stipulation these days, Nozzole sticks with tradition by including 2% white wine from Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes, adding a refreshing brightness to the deep dark cherry, truffle, and black tea nuances. Two full years in huge Slovenian oak casks plus one more in the bottle is the aging regimen for this Tuscan specialty. Did someone say “Where’s the beef?”

Chard No Way?

Weary of the same aromas and flavors that have made Chardonnay seem so… common? It can get very tiresome with the usual routine. That’s why we agree with those rascally winemakers at Vinum Cellars. Their tongue in cheek titles for their wines reflect the playful attitude they keep. Chenin Blanc grapes appear to be the medium for them to create some of California’s most unique and delicious white wine. The fun and delicious Vinum Cellars Chenin Blanc “CNW” Cuvee Clarksburg, California is a shining example of just how new, different, and fun wines other than Chard can be. Crisp and clean, fresh apple and light floral aromas make this Chenin Blanc immensely easy to enjoy. Traditionally a grape from the Loire Valley in France, Chenin grows extremely well in California, especially in Clarksburg with it’s hot days and cool nights.
Skip the Chard and go with Chenin.CNW! Chard– NO– Way

Le Corte “Solyss” Negroamaro Novoli, Apulia, Italia
100% Negroamaro grapes from the “heel of the boot”, Italy’s region of Puglia. This inky– black number possesses so much richness and finesse that we couldn’t believe it was aged for 6 months in stainless steel rather than expensive oak barrels! Made with the help of Austrailian hotshot Chris Ringland, this wine has amazing extract with deep dark berry, tea, and cherry aromas and flavors. An unexpected treat for the palate especially when paired with BBQ

Fresh and Clean

Culley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand
Lemon zest, sweet pea blossom, mineral, and lime aromas with a wee hint of tropical fruit like guava and kiwi. Fantastic balance and a springlike freshness give this wine immediate appeal. The grapes come from the Yarrum Vineyard, in Brancott Valley. Picked in the cool morning to preserve the crispness that is so desirable in Sauvignon Blancs from the Northern end of the South Island of New Zealand. All stainless steel fermentation and bottled a quick three months after harvest. Snappy!

IT’S TATERS!

Colcannon (Cal Ceannan)

3 pounds o’ potatoes, scrubbed and peeled
2 pounds o’ leeks, white parts, rinsed, chopped
2 sticks o’ butter
2 big bunches o’ kale, washed
1 1/2 cups milk, warm
1tsp fresh nutmeg (IMPORTANT)
Fresh pepper and sea salt to taste
OPTION: sauté the leeks with added diced bacon in step two...


Boil the taters and mash ‘em with a stick o’ butter, add 1/2 the nutmeg. Keep warm...
In a large saucepan, sauté the leeks in 2 tbsp butter and start adding the kale, a handful at a time, it will cook down to fit. Grind a lot of fresh black pepper in when you feel like it.
Relax, have a Guinness.
Combine everything you have now cooked together, stirring in milk and remaining butter. Don’t beat the mixture to death or it will turn into glue. Go easy and it should remain nice and light.
Another Guinness.
Add the rest of the nutmeg at the very end and you will realize why it makes the dish that much better.
Relax and have another Guinness.
Serve as a side instead of plain potatoes with a spice rubbed rib eye steak, DA's Perfect roast Chicken, or Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron.
Just relax...

Baa... Baa... Bonarda?

Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah/ Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina
Bonarda? What the…? The most widely planted grape in Argentina is usually blended with Nebbiolo or Barbera in Piedmont, Italy. It grows so darn well in Argentina that it can stand alone, or be blended. This Syrah, Bonarda blend is some serious grillin’ material. Fennel, earth, cocoa, faint herb, black cherry jam, spice box, blackberry, countless complex aromas and flavors and ginormous amounts of silky tannin make this a wine worth taking out the grill early and searing off an entire side o’ beef. Save the ribeye for us… Also perfect with Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron

a.ferguson

Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron

Pick out some rosy, well marbled lamb loin chops and season them with sea salt and pepper. In a large zip top bag, smash and peel as many cloves of garlic as you can handle. Add a teaspoon of good saffron*, a handful of roughly chopped cilantro, and a half cup or so of good olive oil. Let marinate at room temp for two hours, or all day, turning to coat chops often. Remove chops and sear in a hot skillet or grill about a minute or two per side. Serve on a bed of mixed greens with a side of mashed potatoes. A delicious meal to share on one plate, just use your fingers to eat the chops, way more romantic and fun when you share.

*check out http://www.saffron.com/, a WHOLE OUNCE of the finest saffron runs only $69, it’s the best deal and will last almost a year.

Relearn Your ABCs

ABC… anything but Chardonnay. We’ll that might have been true when new French oak barrels were more affordable, but now they cost more than $1000 each! Savvy winemakers like Hugh Chappelle at Lynmar Winery only put Chardonnay in some new barrels and some that are 1 and 2 years old. This way the true character of Chardonnay can shine through, uninhibited by too much oak aromas and flavors. Working with Hugh when he was winemaker at Flowers Winery for the 2002 vintage, I learned a couple of things about how Chardonnay should be treated. With care, first and foremost. The grapes have to be cool… picked early in the morning, then hand sorted to get only the best grapes into the press, and then the juice is gently moved into the winery tanks to settle. Certain barrel regimen should be chosen: how many new, how many older, and which kind of barrels to use. If I remember right, Hugh likes Francois Freres mediums and Louis Latour’s house blend, and only uses 20 to 40 percent of them that are new. He would have me smell each barrel before I dared put any wine into it. I noticed some had a cinnamon quality, others vanilla, others tea and floral aromas. Each barrel of Chardonnay would be tucked into the winery and stored. I stirred the lees in each and every one of them at one point or another while at Flowers Winery in 2002 countless times over, encouraging the citrusy, floral aromas to emerge. Now that Hugh is at Lynmar Winery, and tasting his utterly stunning Lynmar Chardonnay Russian River, I can see that Hugh still has the magic touch with Chard. Citrusy and leesy, floral and crisp in the nose, rich, yet delicate on the palate. It’s one of the best, and why I love Chardonnay. Cheers, Hugh!

a.ferguson

Top Pick for Everyday

Dow Vale do Bonfim Duoro Reserva Duoro, Portugal
Such finesse and graceful balance is rarely found in affordable wines these days. The port producer Dow has made a dry red that fits the description. The Vale do Bonfim is gorgeously proportioned, refined, and elegant. Upon tasting this wine, we couldn’t believe the sheer beauty of this blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Barroca. Crushed red berries, deep cherry, a touch of warm spice, and harmonious acidity make this nectar nearly perfect for any meal or occasion.

Tres Barcos Toro, Spain
What a treat! This Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) wine has early accessibility AND the ability to age very well. Dried cherry and spiced plum aromas fill the glass and are echoed throughout the flavor profile. Deep berry characteristics are well balanced by a lower, yet fresh acidity that prepares the taster for yet another sip. Pork roast, sausage and rice dishes, charcuterie, pates, and other rustic peasant fare goes great with the wines of Toro. Rustic, soft, easy drinking red.

Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris Valle de Uco, Argentina
Fresh and lively aromas of lime blossom and white peach follow though onto the palate and balance harmoniously with clean, crisp apple and lemon flavors. The finish delivers refreshing acidity, which makes it work with almost any meal. It has just enough richness to stand on it’s own as well. A little for the chef, a little for the dish, no? Another Argentine treasure to savor. When you taste this, and notice the price, you’ll want more. Italian Pinot Grigio fans, step up and check this out.

Pretty Wine

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon
They say, “It’s Will-AM-ette, dammit!” in Oregon, and dammit this Pinot Gris is soooooooooo good. This wine has been so consistently refreshing and wonderful year in and year out, it deserves a place in everyone’s refrigerator. Not a wimpy, thin, tart, grapefruity pinot grigio. Although the same grape, it shares little with some of it’s Italian counterpart’s… um… boring– ness. Pinot Gris from the Northwest US is serious white wine, and extremely easy to drink at the same time. It won’t confuse and befuddle the standard Pinot Grigio drinker, and won’t disappoint anyone else either. This one brings crispy, citrusy, floral richness with a tiny hint of gentle spice to the party. Chill, serve, and repeat...

a.ferguson

Don't Misjudge Beaujolais

I love Cru Beaujolais because it is affordable, delectable, and food– friendly, albeit misunderstood.
Gamay is the grape of Beaujolais in many of its forms; Cru, Villages, and Nouveau. Cru Beaujolais is closer to ripe Pinot Noir than its pedestrian counterpart Beaujolais Nouveau. Nouveau is picked, fermented, and simply bottled. Normally, Crus get an extended stay in oak barrels to achieve more rounded flavors and less tutti fruity aromas. It becomes a wine of elegance that is more suitable for sipping than mere gulping. The 10 Crus of Beaujolais exist within the southernmost end of Burgundy in the department of Beaujolais. This amalgamation of hilly vineyards bring refinement and drinking pleasure to the otherwise insipid sea of what has become “nouveau”.
Traditional methods of winemaking in Beaujolais include carbonic maceration: using uncrushed whole bunches of grapes causes a more gentle fermentation, preserving the freshness and easy drinkability inherent in Gamay grapes.
Of the ten Crus, my favorites are… all of them! Moulin A Vent, Brouilly, Cotes du Brouilly, St. Amour, Julienas, Chiroubles, Morgon, Fleurie, Regnie, and Chenas each have individual characteristics. Soil type has a lot to do with it, as does how much sun the grapes get in each particular area. I recommend a step up from the obligatory bottle of Nouveau to bring to dinner. Treat yourself to some “Cru Beauj.” I will, that’s for sure!

More Eddie Vedder

Cline Mourvedre “Ancient Vines” Contra Costa, California
Blackberry pie, crushed red fruit, sweet earth, and almost meaty, forest– like scents and flavors beckon the taster to drink this wonderful libation. This is the perfect red for “cheffing” about the kitchen. Keeping the cook well lubricated with great wine ensures creative and passionately crafted meals. (Say “moo– ved” or just call it Mataro, it’s other name.) Similar to Syrah (Shiraz), and Grenache in style, but still unique.

Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir “Devils Corner” Tasmania, Australia
Classic Pinot Noir characteristics of bing cherry and subtle spice aromas abound in a delicate and elegant framework of fruit and balanced acidity . Deep red color and luscious juicy flavors make this visually AND texturally very pleasing to sip. A real treat for Pinot Noir fans. Bacon, salmon, turkey, ham, cranberries, yams, anything will match this wine beautifully.

So Good it's Scary

Klinker Brick Winery “Old Ghost” Zinfandel, Lodi, California
One type of red wine that really gets me in the mood for cooking low and slow on the stove or grill is Zinfandel. The quintessential California red has so much to offer, but is widely misunderstood. Sure it has gobs of fruity ripeness, but it can also have charm and delicacy. The Old ghost Zin has it all! It is broodingly dark and so purply– red it’s almost black. The aromas of oriental spice, blackberry, subtle pepper and rich vanilla oak are eerily complex and integrated. Flavors emerge layer after layer in dense, soft waves of ripe tannin and plush acidity. I recommend grilled chicken with apples, braising short ribs with Chinese 5 spice, smoky Texas barbeque, a Moroccan tagine, or even a grilled pizza with mushrooms and gorgonzola with this one… or even a burger!