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Monday, December 22, 2008

MM 100 Wines, Spirits & Cigars

MM 100 is that special place in Key Largo where the treasure is found...
Located wherever you are, and there when you get here!
Denny's Liquor is where you stop at Mile Marker 100 to find the best quality and value.

So Much Rhum, So Little Time...

The sheer volume of great Rum out there is staggering, but a few of them come to mind when we think of sipping either in a hammock or with an appendage dipped in the water. Rhum Barbancourt comes to mind a lot. Ranging from 3 to 25 years old, this Rhum delivers the goods at every level. The 15 Year old, specifically...
Here's a quintessential rum made from sugar cane juice that gives aromas of pure dark sugar cane, hints of light molasses, faint smoky tones, and true rum flavor. 15 years of aging in the year 'round warmth of Haiti for rum is like 30 years of age for Cognac in France with its chilly winters. Those 15 years that Barbancout gives this rum create exceptional smoothness, richness, and balance.
They should have called it "Yum".

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Saturday, December 13, 2008

N/V Schramsberg Sparkling Wine Brut Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noirs Napa, California
Champers, shampoo, bubbly, stars, whatever you want to call California Sparkling wine, go ahead, but never ever call it champagne ‘cause it ain’t and never will be. It’s from California, it’s wine, and it has bubbles, right? It’s like this: French stuff is from France and cannot be reproduced exactly the same way here in the states. METHODS can be used, but when your grapes are firmly rooted in Napa, California, your wine will be Californian no matter what name you put on it. Champagne is from north of Paris in France in the region of the same name: Champagne. Blanc de Blanc, means white wine from white grapes, usually chard, blanc de noirs means white wine from dark grapes, usually Pinot Noir. Since the pulp of most grapes is clear this should be an easy concept to grasp if you remember that the color in wine comes from the skins. No skins, no problem. Gently pressed juice shouldn’t have much, if any, color. Now remember that good things come from California, and excellent SPARKLING WINE is made there. The Davies family have it down. They aren’t trying to duplicate the French, they have found the heart and soul of California Sparkling Wine by employing French methods and using California grapes and relying on the California sun. Help our economy and toast American!
2007 Marquis Phillips Grenache Southeastern Australia
Xmas in a glass! They’ve mastered Syrah, but with winemaker Chris Ringland on board Grenache is King. There is something about Ringland and his deft hand with this red grape that hails from Chateauneuf du Pape and eastern Spain. The deep dark cherry core is indicative of the Grenache varietal, but with careful selection in the vineyard and a gentle touch in the winery, Ringland nails down the gingerbread, cinnamon, clove, allspice, and truffle aromas that can be coaxed out of this complex grape. Throw in the Southeastern Australian climate and one juicy, yet graceful behemoth is born. Catch it if you can!
2007 Hugh Hamilton Verdelho "The Trickster" Mclarenvale, Australia
The Black Sheep wines as they are called occasionally, include this vinous application of the PITA grape known as Verdelho. It's origins are from Madeira, Portugal where it's almost unforgivable acidity makes it a great candidate for fortification and long term ageability- the backbone for some Madeira's longevity. Not so Down Under! In Australia, this Verdelho can get wild on you with overly tropical mango and lychee flavors if the grower is not careful, for the acidity all but disappears when it begins to over- ripen. This little grape needs to be handled and harvested for ACID not SUGAR... get it? Indeed, this is oyster, scallop, shrimp, sharp cheese, salted nut, cut through the olive oil kind of white wine here. Racy? Snappy? This wine has the acidity to make a person drool and coo with pleasure. Think about verdant or citrusy things like lime, tarragon, chervil, meyer lemon, kiwi granita, orange, and white cranberries! More fun and refreshing than some New Zealand Sauv Blancs... 'nuff said.

Endless Summers

2006 Summers Winery Estate Charbono Napa Valley, California
Charbono was originally thought to be the Italian grape Barbera by Italian immigrants arriving in California during the late 1800’s, but as it turns out it is actually French in origin. Charbono as a wine is exclusively produced in California, and Summers winery is by far the champion of this rarity. Inky purple in color, and jam packed with a lush berry– cherry quality that remains vibrant on the palate. A difficult wine to procure outside of California, unless of course you are reading this and are familiar with our “taste it, gotta have it” take on excellent, hard to find wines! This wine is sourced from the only 80 acres of Charbono that are grown in California. The estate vines that Summers uses are located in the northern Napa town of Calistoga, 40 acres of very old vines are located. The land up in Calistoga is spotted with hot springs and rugged hillsides, which make prime growing conditions for grapevines. It really shows through in the wine, because the more rustic the growing conditions, the more delicate and concentrated the wine can be. If you love graceful wines, and are waiting to find the perfect Cal– Italian type of wine, this is most definitely it. The top pick for the Holiday feasting is Summers Charbono!

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Louis Latour 06 at Michy's in Miami

Wowee. Well, it WAS nice to taste through the 2006 Louis Latour Burgundies I suppose. I enjoy the wines occasionally, but they don't often rattle my rusty cage or inspire me all that much (except for the 1990 Corton Charlie, which remains to this day my benchmark for Louis Latour whites).
The 2006 Corton Charlemagne, at just this side of $100 per bottle, was pretty darn tasty, albeit young as heck, and peeking it's subtly floral head from behind the wispy veil of clean acidity. It was leaning on the verdant side of citrus, however, and I wonder if that will ripen up and soften out a bit with some years in the bottle.

I still remember my other favorite Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne, the 1995. Almost sublime, it almost whispered with delicate and precise ripe lemony freshness without any of that lemon oil bite, more like citrus essence in its cleanliness. It was a wine that made me stop and savor, and literally contemplate...

Yes, I am getting to the point, hopefully without too much hyperbole and beating around the bush.

Truth be told, Louis Latour wines of late normally bore the hell out of me unless they are unusually delicious. Tasting through the 20 or so wines at Michy's was just shy of a chore. Acrid aromatics here, and a hint of volatile acidity there. The Batard Montrachet not even open at all, the reds were poor except for the Aloxe Corton, and the food pairings were skimpily laid out for the drunks to feed on like seagulls. Don't get me wrong, the FOOD WAS VERY GOOD, but the perpetuation of the ruse that Louis Latour wines need food to taste good has gone too far. Here's the case where the saleperson butts in and proclaims, offended, "They are SUPPOSED to taste that way, they are meant to age, that's the terroir, it's unique." That's complete and utter bullshit. (In a world of Bentleys and BMWs don't oversell the Buick.)

Most of the wines don't have the structure, acidity, or charm to taste good at all... ever. They are boring to me, flat, thin, watery, and vegetal. No amount of aging, no heavenly meal will ever make these wines something special.

For a wine company to be so huge, and wealthy, these wines simply don't deliver. To me, it's disappointing and sad that the ambition for excellence is all but gone for this assumedly well- respected negociant. With all that money, I simply expect a lot more from the wine than what is currently being bottled.

Want a rating? D for DULL, or G for GENERIC. These are not the wines they used to produce. I will not buy them or recommend them. These wines are a waste of money. Period.

a.ferguson

here's a tip: Look for white Burgundies from Verget, or Vincent Girardin, even the most basic wines from them deliver more pleasure than the best from Louis Latour.

Monday, September 8, 2008

Amazing Italian Red Value


Poggio alle Querce “Il Guado” Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy Located up the road from Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia in Tuscany's famed Bolgheri region, Il Guado is made from 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, and exibits such qualities as only those from this region can express: power, finesse, grace, and longevity. It has a fantastic nose complete with hints of truffle, blackberry, sage, dried cherry, cedar, cassis, spice box, plum cake, whiffs of vanilla bean, and a split personality between sweet and savory notes that keeps unfolding in waves of chocolate and coffee. Massive amounts of extract and silky tannin, this has fruit to back it up, yet will last effortlessly for a decade or more! We are guessing (betting) that the big publications discover this one soon. Once that happens, prices skyrocket and availability plummets. Get on it, quick! Should run about 20 bucks...
a.ferguson

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Old Pinot Noir Article Discovered

These wines continue to get EVEN BETTER with time almost regardless of vintage and represent some of the finest Pinot Noirs EVER...

I post this in remembrance of the 1989 Stonington Vineyards Pinot Noir Southeastern New England... no, really, I do...


Wines to Find
12 best Pinot Noirs of 2003


The best of column contains the wines that really hit the spot for me in the previous month. Forget the ratings, I don’t like to write about wines I think are yucky in a “best of column”, anyway. That wouldn’t make any sense, would it? We do a top twelve, because a case of ten doesn’t get you a discount at the local shop. The wines are listed in no particular order.

This past year has been a sort of renaissance in the world of Pinot Noir, especially in California. It has also been an awakening of sorts in my brain as well when it concerns this grape of such variable successes. Great Pinot is being made in every nook and cranny of California. Regional differences in this state, in a way, mimic the terroirs of Burgundy. Not to say that they taste the same, but I argue that Santa Barbara wines taste like Santa Barbara’s soil and grapes, and the same goes for Russian River, Paso Robles, and everywhere else for that matter (provided the inherent qualities are preserved by the growers and winemakers).

The twelve wines that follow are the finest examples of Pinot Noir that I have tasted in the past year or so. They represent fruit with balanced acidity, oak for aromatic nuances, texturally sound midpalate, and overall bliss factor. Of course price has nothing to do with anything. Availability might be an issue for some wines.

2001 Foley Barrel Select Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County
Fennel pollen, tea roses, and shy red cherry aromatics do great justice to the palatable characters of deep plum, sour black cherry, and strawberry sauce flavors. Oh baby! This plum scented number teeters on the edge of cherries and cappuccino flavors. I really love this wine, and have a hard time saving a bottle for my buddy Chef Melissa. It is deep and gorgeously textured, like silky velvet. The acidity is just slightly tangy enough to make my mouth water. Okay, I am drooling! This is really delicate Pinot Noir, but not without heaps of flavor in the midpalate. Worth every red scent!

2001 Fort Ross Vineyards Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
What a wine, so silky and seductive. A jaw dropper of a glass of wine filled with plum and cherry cola. Coffee and roasted nut aromas are subtly waiting in the wings of the starring fruit. Fred Scherrer consulted for this one. Go Fred, go!

2001 Scherrer Winery Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
My friends Dave and Kevin were out here to taste this with me. The incredible fruit and structure of this wine really defined what the Sonoma Coast appellation is all about. Scented with cherry blossoms and deep plum- berry fruit, with perfectly balanced acidity, and a finish that wouldn’t quit, this is one of my all time favorite wines, from anywhere, at any price!

2001 Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
I watched Ross Cobb make this wine and helped with the bottling. The care that he takes with his wines is so intensely attentive, that I just couldn’t believe it. Ross and his parents are among the talented few who not only farm for flavors, but also raise their wines in the cellar as if they were part of the family. The wine world can learn a lot from a winemaker like Ross, I know I did! Check them out: http://www.cobbwines.com/.
The final product could very well be the finest Pinot Noir I have yet tasted from California. Subtle Asian spices tiptoe alongside the utterly seductive black cherry flavors and undulating waves of flavor amongst the texturally harmonious, yet not intrusive, extract and acidity in the midpalate.

1991 Domaine Dujac Aux Combottes Gevrey Chambertin
Frighteningly balanced black fruit and mineral. Stops you in your tracks kind of wine. Makes one realize why Burgundy is great. A “wine epiphany” wine. Utterly complete and seamlessly knit together, without and frayed edges showing. The kind of wine that glides through the mouth.

2002 Spy Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir, New Zealand
A sumptuous Pinot nose with dark berry, juniper, blood orange zest, and cherry cola integrates well with spicy and delicious black fruit and nutty oak. Nice acidity with vanilla on the finish brings this wine to a close. The acidity on this wine makes it appear light and quite young, which it is. With an overnight of air, or a year or two in bottle this wine is supreme. Black coffee, sweet pipe tobacco, and black cherry emerge as the acidity smoothes out over the full silky tannin frame. I open this wine the night before, at this point, and the waiting is the hardest part!

2002 Flowers Andreen Gale Cuvee Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Of course I love this wine, silly! I was THERE to help Hugh and Ross that year. (I was knee deep
in the fragrant must, shoveling it into a basket press.) Coffee, violets, cinnamon, cardamom, sage, toasty oak, cherry, all whirling around and around with Asian spice, zingy raspberry, and a memorable, bittersweet finish that leave you glad you were there to taste it. Really friendly at first, but needs time to mature and loosen up.

2001 Annapolis Winery Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
If I wanted to be a Pinot Noir in a Syrah costume… a BIG ONE, with chocolatey oak, hinting at ginseng and graham cracker, I would be from Annapolis Winery. Dark soil, caramel, cocoa, pear and white tea flavors dissipate into a nice coffee finish. Very large for Pinot Noir! Enjoy with very flavorful dishes.

2000 Lynmar Winery Quail Hill "Quail Cuvee" Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
Mixed berry and spicy vanilla cola knit well with dried fruit to present a Pinot Noir with good varietal character. This is one of my picks for home. For its price, it beats most others. I think it is delicious, with layers and layers of spices and flavors. Blackberry aromatics don’t hurt either. In my book, it’s their best wine.

2001 Peter Michael Le Moulin Rouge Pinot Noir, Calistoga
Beautifully flavored, almost Syrah-like in intensity with its blackberry syrup personality. This is delicious, dark, and extremely rich. If I only had MORE!!! Big and dense, this wine keeps on delivering heaps of full-bodied pleasure.

2001 J Vineyards Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
12,500 cases produced. Like seeing a child all grown up, J Pinot hits the balance and comes of age with a really nice wine for the dollar. Inviting flavors of cranberry, cola, bright cherry, and pomegranate with touches of mushrooms make this a wine to bring this to our house anytime! Hint, hint…

2002 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Pinot Noir
Winemaker Anthony Austin is the guy I call the $6 million dollar winemaker. Not only does he do magic in the cellar, but he is one of the most hands on, down to earth people in the business. His style is an amalgamation of finesse, balance, and texture. The flavors that emerge from his light hand are true Pinot Noir expressionism. The 2002 SCV Pinot is not unlike slipping into a bed with satin sheets; soft, seductive, and lets the imagination run wild. This is a wine with personality, body, character, and intelligence to fall in love with. It’s what Pinot Noir is all about!

© 2004 theWinepress

Friday, August 29, 2008

Sonoma Coast

Ahhhhhh...
Really good Syrah is hard to beat. Fresh and deep aromas of blackberry pie, exotic spices giving warm depth and complexity, and brilliant acidity that makes the mouth water. This is a wine that does more than please the senses, it evokes great memories. Wines that encourage introspection and reflection do more than simply taste good, they transcend. Sounds a bit corny? Perhaps, but you know it's true. I'd be willing to bet you can remember exactly where you were and who you were with when you last tasted a favorite wine.
Sonoma Coast Vineyards' Syrah Hummingbird Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast, California does that for me. Just thinking of it reminds me of the rolling hills outside of Occidental, California, when the warm sun releases the scents of the wild rosemary, fennel, and lavender that grows like shrubs around almost every corner. (This wine brings me back to that time when all that mattered was "what to put on the grill tonight?")
Only 293 cases of this beautiful artwork were made, giving it that nostalgic, bittersweet characteristic that can't be tasted, but savored in a finish that lasts a lifetime...

a.ferguson

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

The Wine Blue Book? Heck Yes! If you are serious about wine and shopping for it, this is a tool you absolutely need to prepare yourself for the ever changing market of vinous commerce. Not only can you find ratings, but a unique Quality Index percentage. Finally a wine rating system that delivers true information based on price AND quality. The lower the percentage, the better value/ quality per dollar ratio. Brilliant. My tasting schedule sure isn't what it used to be, and this handy reference helps me keep up with what wines are out there.
I've never been a ratings whore, and many of you know me as one who eschews Speculo- advocated media sensationalism, but when I run across a wine that I am not sure about, this guide answers the Big Question: "Yes, but is it worth it?"

Next time you ask yourself the Big Question, it should be while your nose is in The Wine Blue Book, not in a wine glass full of regret.

a.ferguson.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Riesling to LOVE

I pity the fool who poo poos Riesling as Grandma’s wine, or “too sweet”. Perhaps they have tried every Riesling on the planet and can assume that they are Riesling experts all of a sudden. Dry, say it with me, DRY Rieslings are all over the place, but a lot of folks are too chicken to try ‘em. Well, dry Rieslings go great with chicken… and fish, lobster, Thai food, oysters, pork, ham, sausage, cured meats, cheese, lots of stuff. The Lengs and Cooter Riesling Watervale Clare Valley, South Australia is PHENOMENAL. What an awesome example of the greatness that is Riesling. Kaffir and Key lime, Meyer lemon, Gravenstein apple, Bartlett pear, and numerous other aromas that justify proper adjectives are evident in this wine. Unreal brightness and clarity match the equally sublime zesty acidity, enhancing the flavors of Blenheim kiwi, subtle Georgia peach, and Indian River grapefruit. I can’t say enough good things about this delicious white wine. It has the clean zip I love, the aromatics I crave, the length on the palate that makes me smile, and the complexity that keeps me coming back for more. To really get to know Riesling, is to LOVE it.
Don’t be chicken, try it!

a.ferguson
Dashwood Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand
Thank goodness it hasn’t been all that long since we found a delicious Pinot under $20 that we can get excited about. A major publication totally missed the mark when rating this wine. They must have been asleep and unable to notice the classic deep ruby/ garnet color, the ripe cherry and soft spice aromatics, the distinct and perectly balanced acidity, and long soft finish. Tough luck for them, good fortune for us! Highly versatile, this Pinot will match salmon, chicken, beef, and whatever else is in front of you at the moment. We recommend finding wild caught Pacific salmon if you can…

a.ferguson
Bodega Catena Zapata Alamos Viognier Mendoza, Argentina
No oak, no malolactic fermentation, no B.S. No tutti fruity syrupy dreck. No chills, spills, or bellyaches in this beautiful example of one of earth’s most difficult white grapes to vinify. Viognier was the darling of France’s Northern Rhone valley for centuries, but now it is a little more abundant and easier to grow elsewhere, as in Argentina. Succulent, crisp, mouthwatering citrus, peach, apricot, and light floral spice character shines with a unique freshness. Awesome.

Keep 2 in the Door

Domaine du Tariquet Ugni Blanc Colombard Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne
Dare we say this is the perfect white for summer quaffing? Indeed! Wholly and purely refreshing, with lively citrusiness, hints of flowers, and a touch of tropicality. This is absolutely thirst quenching and satisfying. Goes down easy without being too light and acidic, or too goopey like some heavier wines. This is all day sipping wine to have at hand at all times. According to the winery, one should “always have a bottle in the fridge door, just in case.” We agree, but recommend at least two in the door.

What to pair with Fava Beans and Old Friends

I love the Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva so much I’d travel to Italy to buy it all. Mmm! Sangiovese based with a dollop of Canaiolo and Colorino for good measure, this is what Chianti is all about. Traditionally a small amount of white wine was required to be blended into all red Chianti. Although not a stipulation these days, Nozzole sticks with tradition by including 2% white wine from Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes, adding a refreshing brightness to the deep dark cherry, truffle, and black tea nuances. Two full years in huge Slovenian oak casks plus one more in the bottle is the aging regimen for this Tuscan specialty. Did someone say “Where’s the beef?”

Chard No Way?

Weary of the same aromas and flavors that have made Chardonnay seem so… common? It can get very tiresome with the usual routine. That’s why we agree with those rascally winemakers at Vinum Cellars. Their tongue in cheek titles for their wines reflect the playful attitude they keep. Chenin Blanc grapes appear to be the medium for them to create some of California’s most unique and delicious white wine. The fun and delicious Vinum Cellars Chenin Blanc “CNW” Cuvee Clarksburg, California is a shining example of just how new, different, and fun wines other than Chard can be. Crisp and clean, fresh apple and light floral aromas make this Chenin Blanc immensely easy to enjoy. Traditionally a grape from the Loire Valley in France, Chenin grows extremely well in California, especially in Clarksburg with it’s hot days and cool nights.
Skip the Chard and go with Chenin.CNW! Chard– NO– Way
Le Corte “Solyss” Negroamaro Novoli, Apulia, Italia
100% Negroamaro grapes from the “heel of the boot”, Italy’s region of Puglia. This inky– black number possesses so much richness and finesse that we couldn’t believe it was aged for 6 months in stainless steel rather than expensive oak barrels! Made with the help of Austrailian hotshot Chris Ringland, this wine has amazing extract with deep dark berry, tea, and cherry aromas and flavors. An unexpected treat for the palate especially when paired with BBQ

Fresh and Clean

Culley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand
Lemon zest, sweet pea blossom, mineral, and lime aromas with a wee hint of tropical fruit like guava and kiwi. Fantastic balance and a springlike freshness give this wine immediate appeal. The grapes come from the Yarrum Vineyard, in Brancott Valley. Picked in the cool morning to preserve the crispness that is so desirable in Sauvignon Blancs from the Northern end of the South Island of New Zealand. All stainless steel fermentation and bottled a quick three months after harvest. Snappy!

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

IT’S TATERS!

Colcannon (Cal Ceannan)

3 pounds o’ potatoes, scrubbed and peeled
2 pounds o’ leeks, white parts, rinsed, chopped
2 sticks o’ butter
2 big bunches o’ kale, washed
1 1/2 cups milk, warm
1tsp fresh nutmeg (IMPORTANT)
Fresh pepper and sea salt to taste
OPTION: sauté the leeks with added diced bacon in step two...


Boil the taters and mash ‘em with a stick o’ butter, add 1/2 the nutmeg. Keep warm...
In a large saucepan, sauté the leeks in 2 tbsp butter and start adding the kale, a handful at a time, it will cook down to fit. Grind a lot of fresh black pepper in when you feel like it.
Relax, have a Guinness.
Combine everything you have now cooked together, stirring in milk and remaining butter. Don’t beat the mixture to death or it will turn into glue. Go easy and it should remain nice and light.
Another Guinness.
Add the rest of the nutmeg at the very end and you will realize why it makes the dish that much better.
Relax and have another Guinness.
Serve as a side instead of plain potatoes with a spice rubbed rib eye steak, DA's Perfect roast Chicken, or Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron.
Just relax...

Baa... Baa... Bonarda?

Crios de Susana Balbo Syrah/ Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina
Bonarda? What the…? The most widely planted grape in Argentina is usually blended with Nebbiolo or Barbera in Piedmont, Italy. It grows so darn well in Argentina that it can stand alone, or be blended. This Syrah, Bonarda blend is some serious grillin’ material. Fennel, earth, cocoa, faint herb, black cherry jam, spice box, blackberry, countless complex aromas and flavors and ginormous amounts of silky tannin make this a wine worth taking out the grill early and searing off an entire side o’ beef. Save the ribeye for us… Also perfect with Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron

a.ferguson

Lamb Loin Chops With Garlic, Cilantro, and Saffron

Pick out some rosy, well marbled lamb loin chops and season them with sea salt and pepper. In a large zip top bag, smash and peel as many cloves of garlic as you can handle. Add a teaspoon of good saffron*, a handful of roughly chopped cilantro, and a half cup or so of good olive oil. Let marinate at room temp for two hours, or all day, turning to coat chops often. Remove chops and sear in a hot skillet or grill about a minute or two per side. Serve on a bed of mixed greens with a side of mashed potatoes. A delicious meal to share on one plate, just use your fingers to eat the chops, way more romantic and fun when you share.

*check out http://www.saffron.com/, a WHOLE OUNCE of the finest saffron runs only $69, it’s the best deal and will last almost a year.

Relearn Your ABCs

ABC… anything but Chardonnay. We’ll that might have been true when new French oak barrels were more affordable, but now they cost more than $1000 each! Savvy winemakers like Hugh Chappelle at Lynmar Winery only put Chardonnay in some new barrels and some that are 1 and 2 years old. This way the true character of Chardonnay can shine through, uninhibited by too much oak aromas and flavors. Working with Hugh when he was winemaker at Flowers Winery for the 2002 vintage, I learned a couple of things about how Chardonnay should be treated. With care, first and foremost. The grapes have to be cool… picked early in the morning, then hand sorted to get only the best grapes into the press, and then the juice is gently moved into the winery tanks to settle. Certain barrel regimen should be chosen: how many new, how many older, and which kind of barrels to use. If I remember right, Hugh likes Francois Freres mediums and Louis Latour’s house blend, and only uses 20 to 40 percent of them that are new. He would have me smell each barrel before I dared put any wine into it. I noticed some had a cinnamon quality, others vanilla, others tea and floral aromas. Each barrel of Chardonnay would be tucked into the winery and stored. I stirred the lees in each and every one of them at one point or another while at Flowers Winery in 2002 countless times over, encouraging the citrusy, floral aromas to emerge. Now that Hugh is at Lynmar Winery, and tasting his utterly stunning Lynmar Chardonnay Russian River, I can see that Hugh still has the magic touch with Chard. Citrusy and leesy, floral and crisp in the nose, rich, yet delicate on the palate. It’s one of the best, and why I love Chardonnay. Cheers, Hugh!

a.ferguson

Top Pick for Everyday

Dow Vale do Bonfim Duoro Reserva Duoro, Portugal
Such finesse and graceful balance is rarely found in affordable wines these days. The port producer Dow has made a dry red that fits the description. The Vale do Bonfim is gorgeously proportioned, refined, and elegant. Upon tasting this wine, we couldn’t believe the sheer beauty of this blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Barroca. Crushed red berries, deep cherry, a touch of warm spice, and harmonious acidity make this nectar nearly perfect for any meal or occasion.
Tres Barcos Toro, Spain
What a treat! This Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) wine has early accessibility AND the ability to age very well. Dried cherry and spiced plum aromas fill the glass and are echoed throughout the flavor profile. Deep berry characteristics are well balanced by a lower, yet fresh acidity that prepares the taster for yet another sip. Pork roast, sausage and rice dishes, charcuterie, pates, and other rustic peasant fare goes great with the wines of Toro. Rustic, soft, easy drinking red.
Bodega Lurton Pinot Gris Valle de Uco, Argentina
Fresh and lively aromas of lime blossom and white peach follow though onto the palate and balance harmoniously with clean, crisp apple and lemon flavors. The finish delivers refreshing acidity, which makes it work with almost any meal. It has just enough richness to stand on it’s own as well. A little for the chef, a little for the dish, no? Another Argentine treasure to savor. When you taste this, and notice the price, you’ll want more. Italian Pinot Grigio fans, step up and check this out.

Pretty Wine

Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon
They say, “It’s Will-AM-ette, dammit!” in Oregon, and dammit this Pinot Gris is soooooooooo good. This wine has been so consistently refreshing and wonderful year in and year out, it deserves a place in everyone’s refrigerator. Not a wimpy, thin, tart, grapefruity pinot grigio. Although the same grape, it shares little with some of it’s Italian counterpart’s… um… boring– ness. Pinot Gris from the Northwest US is serious white wine, and extremely easy to drink at the same time. It won’t confuse and befuddle the standard Pinot Grigio drinker, and won’t disappoint anyone else either. This one brings crispy, citrusy, floral richness with a tiny hint of gentle spice to the party. Chill, serve, and repeat...


a.ferguson

Don't Misjudge Beaujolais

I love Cru Beaujolais because it is affordable, delectable, and food– friendly, albeit misunderstood.
Gamay is the grape of Beaujolais in many of its forms; Cru, Villages, and Nouveau. Cru Beaujolais is closer to ripe Pinot Noir than its pedestrian counterpart Beaujolais Nouveau. Nouveau is picked, fermented, and simply bottled. Normally, Crus get an extended stay in oak barrels to achieve more rounded flavors and less tutti fruity aromas. It becomes a wine of elegance that is more suitable for sipping than mere gulping. The 10 Crus of Beaujolais exist within the southernmost end of Burgundy in the department of Beaujolais. This amalgamation of hilly vineyards bring refinement and drinking pleasure to the otherwise insipid sea of what has become “nouveau”.
Traditional methods of winemaking in Beaujolais include carbonic maceration: using uncrushed whole bunches of grapes causes a more gentle fermentation, preserving the freshness and easy drinkability inherent in Gamay grapes.
Of the ten Crus, my favorites are… all of them! Moulin A Vent, Brouilly, Cotes du Brouilly, St. Amour, Julienas, Chiroubles, Morgon, Fleurie, Regnie, and Chenas each have individual characteristics. Soil type has a lot to do with it, as does how much sun the grapes get in each particular area. I recommend a step up from the obligatory bottle of Nouveau to bring to dinner. Treat yourself to some “Cru Beauj.” I will, that’s for sure!

More Eddie Vedder

Cline Mourvedre “Ancient Vines” Contra Costa, California
Blackberry pie, crushed red fruit, sweet earth, and almost meaty, forest– like scents and flavors beckon the taster to drink this wonderful libation. This is the perfect red for “cheffing” about the kitchen. Keeping the cook well lubricated with great wine ensures creative and passionately crafted meals. (Say “moo– ved” or just call it Mataro, it’s other name.) Similar to Syrah (Shiraz), and Grenache in style, but still unique.
Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir “Devils Corner” Tasmania, Australia
Classic Pinot Noir characteristics of bing cherry and subtle spice aromas abound in a delicate and elegant framework of fruit and balanced acidity . Deep red color and luscious juicy flavors make this visually AND texturally very pleasing to sip. A real treat for Pinot Noir fans. Bacon, salmon, turkey, ham, cranberries, yams, anything will match this wine beautifully.

So Good it's Scary

Klinker Brick Winery “Old Ghost” Zinfandel, Lodi, California
One type of red wine that really gets me in the mood for cooking low and slow on the stove or grill is Zinfandel. The quintessential California red has so much to offer, but is widely misunderstood. Sure it has gobs of fruity ripeness, but it can also have charm and delicacy. The Old ghost Zin has it all! It is broodingly dark and so purply– red it’s almost black. The aromas of oriental spice, blackberry, subtle pepper and rich vanilla oak are eerily complex and integrated. Flavors emerge layer after layer in dense, soft waves of ripe tannin and plush acidity. I recommend grilled chicken with apples, braising short ribs with Chinese 5 spice, smoky Texas barbeque, a Moroccan tagine, or even a grilled pizza with mushrooms and gorgonzola with this one… or even a burger!
Willowglen Petite Sirah S.E. Australia
Burly, chewy, and packed with inky dark fruit. Impossible amounts of stuffing, bursting at the seams with gutsy ripeness and full– bodied heft. This wine delivers massive appeal for the money as well as Petite Sirah’s characteristic meaty blackberry, peppery spice. A steal!
Te Awa Merlot Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Whoa! Delicious Merlot… from New Zealand?! You betcha. This kind of quality to price ratio is hard to find these days. Rich plummy fruit in a spice box package. Depth, complexity, soft tannin, balanced acidity, and ripe flavors, AND its affordable! Who’d a thunk it? Perfect for late season grilling or indoor broiling. Try it with sausage, duck, or even a simple roast chicken, you’ll be very pleased with the results.

a.ferguson
Inama Soave Classico, Veneto Italy
Crisp Gravenstein apple, white tea, and light citrus zest aromas pair with cool, polished, mouthwatering acidity. We love this wine with crustaceans, grilled fish and poultry. Simply grilled veggies and bruschetta are another good match. Lip-smacking good, clean and crisp, not the austere style of Soave that flooded the markets in the late 1970’s and 80’s. One of the best white wines... ever, at any price, for our money.

a.ferguson

Monday, July 28, 2008

Andrew's Pick

The Bodegas Vistalba “Corte B” Tinto Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza, Argentina from Carlos Pulenta is black as ink! This blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda, and Merlot captures the soul of what red wine should be. Rich and burly, with a softer edge and a real presence on the palate. This number lets you know it’s red, big, and incredible to drink. With some age or a bit of time exposed to air, whether in a glass or in a decanter, this wine continues to expand and open, revealing more and more complexities and polished finesse. Heaps and heaps of cassis, blackberry, and cherry flavors are balanced by savory notes of fennel, fines herbes, and cocoa. Huge wine for the price. Age-worthy AND approachable: drink it tonight or in 10 years, either way it’s YUMMY!

a.ferguson

What Pinot to Pick to Pair with Poultry?

Pinot BLANC...
Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc Sonoma County, CA
ANY Pinot will match with the Roasted Corn Sauce with Rosemary for Chicken and Fish , but this Pinot Blanc works magical wonders with the sauce. Imagine a wine similar to chardonnay without all the things you hate about chard? That’s Pinot Blanc by nature. This particular one is without the clumsy oakiness or goopy butteriness that make other whites so darn… heavy. Clean citrus and apple with a slightly warm spice aromas aren't intrusive but inviting. Pleasant acidity give this wine elegant freshness and a natural affinity for food. After a taste of your meal, this wine wraps itself around the flavors in your mouth and compliments them as if it were the perfect seasoning for the dish. That is the fundamental core of pairing food and wine that heightens the experience of merely eating dinner. This Pinot Blanc makes Roasted Corn Sauce with Rosemary for Chicken and Fish even BETTER. Tasty on it’s own, too!

a.ferguson

DA's Perfect roast Chicken

The chicken needs flavor before roasting so:
Place chicken in a large bowl and add 3 bay leaves, 1/4 cup cracked black pepper, 1/2 cup salt (don't worry),1 cup white wine, and 2 tbsp honey, cover with warm water to dizzolve salt. Set aside for 2– 3 hours or refrigerate overnight.

Remove chicken and stuff with lots of fresh whole rosemary, 3 lemon halves, and a whole head of garlic.
Don’t preheat the oven! Put the chicken in at about 375º and pour yourself some Pinot.

Then make a sauce.

When the skin is a crispy deep golden brown and the internal temp is about 150º, take the bird out and let her rest for 10 or 15 min.
Drizzle with olive or truffle oil, a squeeze of lemon, and grind some fresh pepper on it. Carve the bird and spoon the warm sauce over each serving.
Serve with garlic mashed potatoes, crusty bread, and a hearty green like calo nero or broccoli rabe.
Have more Pinot and enjoy!

a.ferguson

Roasted Corn Sauce with Rosemary for Chicken and Fish

Roasted Corn Sauce with Rosemary for Chicken and Fish
This is quick, simple, and delicious.
Saute 1 tsp butter and 1 tsp olive oil with half a package of frozen corn, and 1/4 cup minced shallots until corn turns a light golden brown. Then add 1/4 cup of white wine, fresh rosemary leaves, salt and pepper to taste, the rest of the package of corn, and another tsp butter. Let thicken slightly and serve over Roast chicken, or fish like salmon or halibut.
Drizzle with olive or truffle oil if you have it.

Fresh corn kernels work best, especially with sauteed, golden brown wild mushrooms, sliced...
This is hard to mess up, so adapt it to your needs.

a.ferguson

What to Drink Tonight

2006 Maryhill Winery Winemakers Blend Red Wine Columbia Valley, Washington
Richly drinkable red with something for everyone. Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc, blended without a seam or thread missing. Delicious cocoa, plum, classic cassis, oriental spice, and tons of enticing aromas. Great fruit, tannin, and acid balance. We tasted this wine and were immediately turned on to what Washington State has to offer, and with an affordable price tag. Steaks, chops, roasts, cheese, burgers, lamb, duck, goose, squab, quail, duck, colcannon, nothing. It all goes fantastically well with this.
Yes, it pairs with a spice rubbed ribeye.

a.ferguson

Put This in your Glass and Drink It

Bodega Del Desierto La Pampa 25/5 Sauvignon Blanc Alto Valle Del Rio Colorado.
Sure it’s a mouthful to say, and also a delicious mouthful of wine to sip! Just call it the 25/5 Sauv Blanc, it is easier to remember. So delightfully refreshing and squeaky clean with it’s delicate floral, stone fruit, and mineral laden aromas, though not overtly intense. Bright acidity and a luscious, mouthwatering finish make this perfect for sipping alone, with fruit and cheeses, seafood, simply roasted or grilled chicken or whatever is on the menu. Makes a great beverage before the meal while waiting for the grill to heat up, or waiting for guests to arrive. Almost a cross between the best of New Zealand and California, with snappy acid and plenty of fruit to balance it out. Oh, and having California’s very own Paul Hobbs as consulting winemaker doesn’t hurt! So if you find yourself driving down the western edge of the desert route to Patagonia, stop in at the town known as 25 de Mayo (the 25th of May) in Puelén, La Pampa, Argentina. You’ll be thirsty by then.
In the meantime, uncover the grill, wipe down the lawn chairs, string up the hammock, take a break, and have a glass of this...

a.ferguson

One for the Cellar

El Regajal Selleción Especial Vinos de Madrid, Spain
Elegant and bright berry and cherry aromatics give way to supple and silky, mouthfilling, juicy tannins. Tempranillo provides a firm base with hints of rose petal amongst the red fruit flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon lends elegant heft, with it’s contribution of soft currant and lush texture. Merlot and Syrah add the telltale hints of plum, spice, and faint black pepperiness. Heck of a wine, and exotic. Balanced acidity and ample fruit to drink tonight, or cellar for ten years or more provided it’s in a cool cellar. New world Spanish red with old world charm and elegance. Ripeness and finesse all in one? You Betcha!
And the label looks cool...

a.ferguson

Missing Mollydooker?

2006 Marquis Phillips Shiraz Southeastern Australia
Chris Ringland took over as winemaker from Sarah and Sparky Marquis without messing with the EXTREMELY high quality of fruit, now sourced entirely from Mclaren Vale. 92 parker points and 100% full on delicious Shiraz. We think that this brooding, black raspberry, almost chambourd– like scented, spice inflected, juice injected, vinous projectile, is utterly gratuitously fruity and fun to drink! Never fear, there’s plenty of silky tannin, and balanced acidity here to carry all the thrill packed into this Aussie gem! Another underpriced, killer value.

a.ferguson

White Wine for Sipping and Grilling

Dutch Bill Creek Chardonnay Sonoma County, California
Another stunning wine from one of the best growing regions for Chardonnay, Sonoma County. The Heintz family grows some of the most sought after, and therefore expensive, Chardonnay fruit in California. How this delicious wine came to the shelf at under $40, we might never understand, but who are we to argue. Crisp apple, chamomile, ginger, lemon zest, this has everything one could ever want in a chardonnay, without too much. Utterly delectable and balanced, crisp and lively.

a.ferguson

Killer Cabernet

Holy cow. Killer California Cabernet Sauvignon like this one, at this price, is a dream you say? Wake up and smell the crushed berry blossoms, ripe currant, bergamot, mocha spice, and blackberry goodness! One could just smell this wine all day and almost forget to sip it. It’s soooo aromatic and tasty! We think the Wall Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon California is just the ticket to satisfy the under $20 Cabernet lust we all share. Did someone say ribeye? Yes we have an obsession with big red wines and juicy steaks, is that such a big deal?

a.ferguson

White Wine for Scallops and Such

Any white in this blog would be delicious with scallops, but the Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina Sannio, Italia might be an absolutely perfect match with the above recipe. Brilliantly clean and fresh aromas and flavors of subtle spring flowers, hints of tropical fruit, zingy twists of citrus peel, lemons, and faint herbs abound in this crisp libation. We can’t seem to get enough of wines like this! Certain to tickle one’s taste buds, a cool glass of Falanghina really cannot be beat when paired with lighter fare such as scallops. One of the great things about many Italian whites is that they can hold their own with challenging pairings like vinaigrettes, asparagus, artichokes, and bitter greens.

a.ferguson

Sea Scallop Recipe

Served on a light bed of chopped spring greens.
1 lb package Bomster’s Scallops, thawed, rinsed and cleaned, and patted dry with paper towel
2 tbls extra virgin olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, smashed
1/2 cup white wine
1 1/2 sticks of butter (NO CREAM!!!)
1 vanilla bean, pod and all, split and scraped OR 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1/2 tsp saffron threads
Sea salt to taste


Saute shallots in a saucepan in 1 tbl olive oil, until translucent. Add wine and reduce until thickened, adding saffron towards the end to infuse color and aroma, and finally the vanilla.
Add all but 1 tsp butter and whisk lightly until smooth and creamy, DON’T cook it, melt it on low lest it separate. Remove garlic clove and vanilla bean pod if used.
While reducing, heat a sauté pan with 1 tsp butter and 1 tsp olive oil and when hot add scallops face down. Cook over medium high heat until a golden brown crust is formed on the bottoms, and they are easily removed from the pan, and just cooked through.
Scatter chopped spring greens lightly over a white plate and arrange 3 or 5 scallops per. Make sure your sauce is thick and warm and DRIZZLE over and around the scallops sparingly. (Use a spoon for control.) Don’t be afraid to garnish with a few saffron threads. A few drops of white truffle oil wouldn’t hurt, either.

Bomster’s
Stonington Seafood Harvesters
Town Dock, Stonington Borough
Stonington, CT 06378
(888)-486-8404

a.ferguson

Pinot Envy

Everyone is jealous about everyone else’s Pinot. Some like it Noir, some Blanc, some Gris. Some like it thicker, some thin. Often people will argue about size, others will say it’s about style. I say everyone’s right about Pinot, because it’s all about which Pinot fits a person best, with whom one shares the Pinot, and what’s on the menu for the evening.
Pinot Noir, food friendly Pinot Blanc, and that little tart Pinot Grigio all have their seductive sides. One Pinot Noir in my little black book comes from California, way, way out and up the Sonoma Coast. It not a big wine, but styled and crafted in an elegant and voluptuous frame. It’s come hither aromas of Bing cherry jam, warm Asian spices, subtle jasmine or Earl Grey tea, and seductively subtle hints of French oak marry well with balanced acidity and perfect body to produce a mouthfeel as smooth as silk. Did I mention that I love this wine?
It’s the Fort Ross Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, Fort Ross Vineyard and it is so beautifully delicious that you’ll fall in love with it too. Snuggle up with a glass of this Pinot with your sweet one. Pairs well with fireplaces, thick rugs, and roast chicken with rosemary and roasted corn sauce.

a.ferguson

Wine Suggestions

I may have tasted thousands and thousands of wines in my time, but there is no way I can guess what tastes good to another person. Wine is suggestive. I have to get to know all of your individual tastes to focus on what you like to drink. I might like wines that others don’t, and that’s fine, it doesn’t make anyone “wrong”.
Having tasted so much stuff, it’s easier for me to zero in on wines that you MIGHT like. Sometimes I get it the first time, sometimes it takes a few tries.
It’s up to you to express your vinous likes and dislikes to me, not the other way around. I already know what I like, it’s up to you to tell me what you are looking for. I am here to facilitate not dictate. My wine preferences and tastes are guides, not gospel, for not everyone agrees.
Wine publications and critics may give their opinion in the form of ratings and/ or reviews. My opinion comes in the form of recommendations based on what I might know about the buyer and what they tell me regarding their wine wants and needs.
I do enjoy having people try different wines that they might not usually pick for themselves.
I think there is a place for every wine that celebrates the different tastes of every person. If one wine was truly better than another, there would be only one wine, and that would bore me to tears.
Come and share your preferences with me, I will try and learn what YOU like and suggest wines accordingly.
Remember if it tastes good, it IS good. Only you know what tastes good to you... I can only guess.

a.ferguson

Amazing Italian Red Wine Value

Poggio alle Querce “Il Guado” Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy

Located across the road from Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia in Tuscany's famed Bolgheri region, Il Guado is made from 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, and exibits such qualities as only those from this region can express: power, finesse, grace, longevity, and a fantastic nose complete with hints of truffle, blackberry, sage, dried cherry, cedar, cassis, spice box, plum cake, whiffs of vanilla bean, and a split personality between sweet and savoury notes that keeps unfolding in waves of chocolate and coffee. Massive amounts of extract and silky tannin, this has fruit to back it up, yet will last effortlessly for a decade or more! We are guessing (betting) that the big publications discover this one soon. Once that happens, prices skyrocket and availability plummets.
Get on it, quick!

a.ferguson